Installation Problems

[GTMux]

This project is great! And I would love to bring it in our shooting club for these people who like accurate reloads. Unfortunately I'm not able to get the RPi Zero running due to problems during the installation process:

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npm install

[email protected] install /home/pi/node_modules/bluetooth-hci-socket
node-gyp rebuild

make: Entering directory '/home/pi/node_modules/bluetooth-hci-socket/build'
CXX(target) Release/obj.target/binding/src/BluetoothHciSocket.o
In file included from ../src/BluetoothHciSocket.cpp:8:
../../nan/nan.h: In function ‘void Nan::AsyncQueueWorker(Nan::AsyncWorker*)’:
../../nan/nan.h:2298:62: warning: cast between incompatible function types from ‘void ()(uv_work_t)’ {aka ‘void ()(uv_work_s)’} to ‘uv_after_work_cb’ {aka ‘void ()(uv_work_s, int)’} [-Wcast-function-type]
, reinterpret_cast<uv_after_work_cb>(AsyncExecuteComplete)

...
...
...
gyp ERR! build error
gyp ERR! stack Error: make failed with exit code: 2
gyp ERR! stack at ChildProcess.onExit (/usr/lib/node_modules/npm/node_modules/node-gyp/lib/build.js:194:23)
gyp ERR! stack at ChildProcess.emit (events.js:198:13)
gyp ERR! stack at Process.ChildProcess._handle.onexit (internal/child_process.js:248:12)
gyp ERR! System Linux 4.19.75+
gyp ERR! command "/usr/bin/node" "/usr/lib/node_modules/npm/node_modules/node-gyp/bin/node-gyp.js" "rebuild"
gyp ERR! cwd /home/pi/node_modules/bluetooth-hci-socket
gyp ERR! node -v v10.17.0
gyp ERR! node-gyp -v v5.0.5
gyp ERR! not ok

[erichiggins]

@GTMux Thanks for reporting this! If you have the complete installation log available, would you mind including it here in the ticket, or as a separate Gist? I think some critical information from the trace may be missing.

Lastly, can you provide a little bit of detail about your setup?

• Host machine (Mac, Windows, Linux):
• Raspbian version:

Thanks again!

[GTMux]

Hi @erichiggins,
thanks for the fast response. Setup is:

• a Raspberry Zero W (armv6l)
• installed from an iMac (High Sierra / 10.13.6) using balenaEtcher to transfer the Raspbian image (Raspbian Buster Lite, Version:September 2019, Release date:2019-09-26, Kernel version:4.19)

System setup started based on your description (rename, expand etc., update, install bluetooth bluez libbluetooth-dev libudev-dev, cloning project)

And than this time it seems to work fine except some warnings concerning missing pre-build resources (please see InstallLog.txt attached). Only the service installation ended with a failure (Log attached). And unfortunately I got an error message in the app on my android tab (SM-T210 Android Version 4.4.2) that no device is connected.

The difference between today and the last 5 days of installation trials: I only did:
sudo apt-get update
and NOT sudo apt-get upgrade
and NOT sudo apt-get distr-upgrade

Maybe you have some hints for me to get this running?

Thanks for your time!

Ralf

2019-10-26_InstallLog.txt
2019-10-26_ServiceInstfail.txt

[GTMux]

Anyone have any ideas?
I would be very happy about advice. :)

Thanks and best regards,
Ralf

[erichiggins]

Sorry for the delay (I was traveling for work)!

I have some time this weekend to dig into this issue -- I'd first like to see if I can reproduce it.

The real solution, I believe, would be for me to provide a ready-to-flash image that has everything installed. That avoids this type of complication.

[GTMux]

Thanks a lot - this would be great. I was close to ask you for an image. :)
Sorry to bother you with this problem...

[erichiggins]

Just a quick update on this: I have made some significant progress on a pre-configured image. It's nearly there, just requires a few more tweaks. Once it's ready, I'll share a link for you to give it a try. If it works for you, I'll update this repo and docs w/ an official link to it.

[erichiggins]

Another update: I know it's taking a while -- sorry about that! It's very close now.

More context: I'm using a system called buildroot to build a custom SD card image. The manual is long and complex, and it takes a few hours to run a complete build from scratch. So, it's not quite as easy as making a small change then being able to test it quickly. I still have to write the image to an SD card, boot a system, and see if everything is working.

It's coming along, but is very, very time-consuming. The two pieces I'm blocked on are:

1. Getting bluetooth working correctly
2. Getting the Open Trickler software to run correctly on boot

Thanks for your patience on this. If you happen to have any experience with buildroot, help is always appreciated!

[GTMux]

Hi Eric,

thanks for the update. I keep my fingers crossed that you succeed.
Unfortunately, I have no idea how I could help with software related stuff...

[erichiggins]

Great news! I just got bluetooth working!
It's late now, so I haven't tried loading the OpenTrickler software yet. I'll give that a shot tomorrow -- it's looking very promising so far!

[erichiggins]

SUCCESS! I'll share an image file today along with some instructions. It'll help if someone can try it out and make sure it works on their end before I publish it to the world.

[GTMux]

great - would be a pleasure for me to test it! :)

[erichiggins]

Test image file can be downloaded here. Please be sure to read all of the following instructions and notes.

Please let me know if you have any questions, have any issues, or (hopefully) are able to get it working!

Instructions

• Download the attached SD card image file
  shasum: 47910ee0389418c11f7afd112ec4d9cad7d5ce06
• Flash the image to your microSD card (I highly recommend balena etcher)
• If you want it to be able to login via SSH over WiFi (optional):
  Edit boot/wpa_supplicant.conf and add the SSID and password for your wireless network.
• Insert the microSD card into your Pi, connect it to your scale, and boot it up
• After about 60 seconds, try to connect to it with the OpenTrickler Android App.

Notes

• It's designed to use the PWM pin 12 on the Pi, rather than pin 15 which I used originally. You can change this in the ecosystem.config.js file on the code partition if needed (more below).
• It takes about 60-90 seconds for the system to fully boot and the OpenTrickler to be visible to the Android App.
• The microSD card will have three partitions: boot, code, and opentrickler. The first two are formatted with FAT32 and can be viewed/modified from Windows and Mac computers.
• The source code from this repo and all dependencies are contained on the code partition, so you can modify easily and try your own version.
• There are no logs available in this test image. I'm working on that.
• The attached file is compressed with xz to reduce the .img file from 320MB to 52MB. You might need to decompress it before flashing.
• It will not show up as opentrickler.local on your network. You'll need to check your WiFi router to figure out it's IP address in order to SSH into it.
• You can SSH into it using root as the login. The password is ammolytics
• There are some security risks associated with having a device connected to your network that has it's root password published online. I don't recommend using this image long-term.

[erichiggins]

Quick update: I'm working on another image that addresses some of the missing features that I listed above. Namely:

• Addressable on the network at opentrickler.local
• Improved startup performance
• Logging (if connected to the device via SSH)

[GTMux]

Hi Eric,

Thanks for your updates. I downloaded the image, decompressed it, brought it on the SD card using balena etcher with success. Due to the fact that my scale is currently borrowed by a friend I was not able to connect the scale.

Currently I can't establish a bluetooth connection and can't find the raspberry via bluetooth. Open trickler app: You are not connected to a device.

Is it necessary to connect to a scale first?

[matsyngvelindgren]

IT WORKS SUPER NICE !!!
Awesome job man!!!
Many thanks and a big hug :-D

[erichiggins]

@GTMux From the Android App, you need to connect to the unit. You do not need to pair with the app from your Bluetooth menu/system settings.

• Open the menu (top-left corner of the screen)
• Select "Bluetooth Devices"
• Tap the button on the bottom-right of the screen and it should try to connect
• On successful connection, you should see the readings of the scale on screen
• Then, go back to the home view and you can control the trickler

I'm pretty sure I demonstrated all of this in my YouTube video.

Hope this helps!

FWIW: The UI needs some updates to make this all easier based on what we've learned from using it.

[GTMux]

@erichiggins Thanks for the information but this is what I did. The app isn't showing any device. Of course I tapped the button on the bottem-right of the screen a couple of times. :) Maybe because of my old Android Tab. I will try with a newer model in the following days.

[erichiggins]

@GTMux That's interesting. A few things come to mind:

The Pi won't advertise itself on Bluetooth if it cannot detect the scale. The scale has to be plugged into it, turned on, and correctly configured.

Assuming a correct setup on the Pi/Scale, the question is: Is the problem the Pi or the Android app?
There are a few ways to find the answer to this. There's a free Android app called nRF Connect which is pretty useful for debugging Bluetooth devices. It will let you see every device that is advertising.

[cyclepath37]

I was having the same issue as GTMux and then noticed only the boot partition was on the sd card. I’m not sure what i am doing wrong.

[erichiggins]

@cyclepath37 Which operating system are you using? Windows and Apple computers won't be able to see all three, but the boot and code should both be visible.

As long as your using the balena etcher program to flash the SD card, it should create the same result.

Did you configure your scale using the instructions listed in my article?

[cyclepath37]

Windows and using balena etcher as suggested. Only showing boot if i etch with or without decompressing.
I have an A&D HR202i, but have it configured the same as you show with the fx120.

[erichiggins]

@cyclepath37 I'm not familiar with that particular model, so you may want to double check the manual to verify that it's RS232 interface operates the same way. For the sake of this conversation, let's assume it does for now.

Potential causes:

• Incorrect serial to USB adapters (they aren't all the same, even with identical physical connections)
• Scale not plugged in and turned on before booting the Pi
• Driver on the Pi being flakey. I've seen this on occasion and there's not a clear software workaround. Just have to reboot the Pi and try again

I can share another image tomorrow that includes logging, which would help to diagnose these problems more easily.

With the image you have, you can configure it to connect to your WiFi then SSH into the Pi and see what's going on, if you're comfortable working with the Linux command line.

[Shooter0423]

@erichiggins thanks for the updated image. I loaded to two different RPi Zero W's with different brand SD cards (1 16g, the other 32g) both connected to the scale and worked to ready the scale value in the startup are. My issue comes in 2 parts.

1. After the initial success with the 2 setups, they developed a inability to connect, it was getting late so I shut everything done. tried it just now and things are working fine again, don't know what I did different? Is there a correct way to disconnect
2. Havent been able to get the vibro motor to do its thing. I know the motor and tube work cause I can test the on an Arduino. Is there a reason that the control pin changed, don't think it is the problem but just asking

[erichiggins]

@Shooter0423 Glad you were able to get them working fairly easily -- now to see if we can figure out some of the issues you've run into.

Let's start with the motors not running. The reason I changed the control pin from 15 to 12 was to allow the use of PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) control on the motors.

Here's a pin out diagram for the Pi Zero W. Note that physical pin 15 is BCM 22 and physical pin 12 is BCM 18 (PWM 0)

You can check if this is the issue you're having pretty easily with two different methods:

First, power up the OpenTrickler Pi & scale in the usual way, connect w/ the app, then set a charge weight (like 10.00 gr) and hit the Play button. At this point, the motor should be running. If it's doing nothing, you can check the control pin on the Pi using a multimeter/voltmeter. You should see it turning on/off with approx 3V. If you don't, then check the other pin.

The other method you can use is to change the pin setting in the config file. Pull the microSD card out of the Pi and connect it to your computer. You should see a drive called code. On that drive, there will be a folder named opentrickler which has a file named ecosystem.config.js. Open that file with a text editor (NOT a word processor). You can change the MOTOR_PIN setting from 12 to whatever you are using. You may still want to use a multimeter in the same way I described above to verify that it's working as expected.

As for the issues you're having with disconnecting... I may need more info for that. There could be a software bug that I can fix. For now, how about we get the motor working first?

[Shooter0423]

Thanks for the quick response. I had debugged the issue the way you described but the real culprit turned out to be a bad solder joint. So everything is up and running. The Bluetooth connection seem to need more time than I’m allowing, I think that will eliminates the problem, I’ll let you know.

…

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 27, 2019, at 5:37 PM, Eric Higgins ***@***.***> wrote: @Shooter0423 Glad you were able to get them working fairly easily -- now to see if we can figure out some of the issues you've run into. Let's start with the motors not running. The reason I changed the control pin from 15 to 12 was to allow the use of PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) control on the motors. Here's a pin out diagram for the Pi Zero W. Note that physical pin 15 is BCM 22 and physical pin 12 is BCM 18 (PWM 0) You can check if this is the issue you're having pretty easily with two different methods: First, power up the OpenTrickler Pi & scale in the usual way, connect w/ the app, then set a charge weight (like 10.00 gr) and hit the Play button. At this point, the motor should be running. If it's doing nothing, you can check the control pin on the Pi using a multimeter/voltmeter. You should see it turning on/off with approx 3V. If you don't, then check the other pin. The other method you can use is to change the pin setting in the config file. Pull the microSD card out of the Pi and connect it to your computer. You should see a drive called code. On that drive, there will be a folder named opentrickler which has a file named ecosystem.config.js. Open that file with a text editor (NOT a word processor). You can change the MOTOR_PIN setting from 12 to whatever you are using. You may still want to use a multimeter in the same way I described above to verify that it's working as expected. As for the issues you're having with disconnecting... I may need more info for that. There could be a software bug that I can fix. For now, how about we get the motor working first? — You are receiving this because you were mentioned. Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub, or unsubscribe.

[erichiggins]

@Shooter0423 Great! If you are able to reproduce the bluetooth issues, go ahead and open a new issue here on GitHub so we can track it separately.

@GTMux @cyclepath37 Have either of you had luck getting yours working?

[GTMux]

@erichiggins: thanks for the update. As mentioned I‘m still waiting for the scale. When the scale arrives back at my home I‘ll let you know directly.

[cyclepath37]

Still stuck. I confirmed the fx & hr202i balance RS232 pins are the same. Does it need the entire breadboard motor circuit connected for the bluetooth to work? I am using an old dandy trickler and haven’t tied it in yet, so i have been trying to connect with just the bare pi zero without the motor circuit.

[cyclepath37]

Update: I continued to struggle with bluetooth connection loss as many others had also. It would connect, then drop and sometimes take several attempts to reconnect, followed by dropping it again. I ended up ordering a different serial cable.
It must have been the cable because the new cable has connected right away with no loss after running it for 20 minutes!!!!
Here is the cable I ordered
USB to RS232 Adapter with PL2303 Chipset, CableCreation 3.3 ft USB 2.0 to RS232 Female DB9 Serial Converter Cable for Cashier Register, Modem, Scanner, Digital Cameras, CNC, 1M Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0769FY7R7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EHphEbVHZDVP9
Up and running!!!!

[Shooter0423]

Update:
I have been having intermittent connection problems. Most of the time the Bluetooth would connect but the trickler program and the scale would not report TRUE and the program would stay in a loop and never connect. I would cycle the power to the RPi and let the program start over. Generally after 2 or 3 tries it would connect and all would be good. I followed @cyclepath37 cable suggestion from above, (I did not replace the USB to micro USB adapter) and been starting and restarting over the last couple hours, probably 10 or 12 times by now. The RPi has connected everytime.

[erichiggins]

@Shooter0423 Interesting! Thanks for the update! I'll order one of these cables and try it out, then update the parts list. So happy that the community was able to find a great solution for this one!

[Shooter0423]

@erichiggins
I think the cable definitely fixed my connection issues. More starts and restarts today, working every time. I have the led code to monitor startup embedded in the Index.js file and the led's will even turn on in different orders as the program is retrying to establish connections. Interesting situation, if you forget to turn on the scale, the BT will connect, program and scale will report FALSE, turn on the scale and both will report TRUE and OpenTrickler is ready to roll.
I need to post something about the edits to the code and layout on the proto-bonnet. A picture will not be very good, and a hand sketch probably worse, have any suggestions. And what to do with the modified files.

Pic show a drv8825 stepper driver, i got that mostly working, not sure best place to activate the powder measurer, looking at the code in trickler.js where it starts the motor when the scale is zero for more than 1 second

[Datakalu]

I ordered the Cable Creations cable as well and I am no longer experiencing Bluetooth issues. So far it’s been 100% and connecting quickly. Thank you @cyclepath37 & @Shooter0423 !!! Moving forward and starting to build a Dandy style trickler for the system.

[Shooter0423]

@Datakalu great news, haven't heard any news from @erichiggins about his experience with the new cable. We owe a bit of thanks to @cyclepath37. If you start a new thread about your trickler build, i'll post a couple pictures of a trickler I built out of gray pvc conduit connectors (iirc about $5 maybe $7) and eric's vibro-motor circuit

[MrMr-No]

I activate stepmotor only when I need need more then 30 grains

case (tickDelta > 1499):
this.motor.speed = SPEEDS.VERY_FAST

...
....

drv8825 working very well :)

[erichiggins]

I ordered a new cable, but I'm out of town for work and won't get a chance to try it until tomorrow.

Thanks to everyone for sharing their feedback & suggestions, generally helping each other out and being awesome!

[erichiggins]

@Shooter0423 Two ways to share your code changes:

1. You can create a public Gist here on GitHub. Very easy.
   https://gist.github.com/
2. You can create a Pull Request to add your changes into the repo. I can review it, suggest changes, then merge it.

Don't hesitate to email me if you need some help.

[Shooter0423]

@MrMr-No, great idea to put it in as another speed option. I have struggled to keep it from double throwing in shouldGo or startWhenReady. Are you setting up a function for the stepper code and calling it and are you using setIntervals or msleep/usleep. My coding skill with js is poor, any code you want to share will be greatly appreciated.

[MrMr-No]

From case i calling pythonshell cod and using python to run step motor. First check if requested weight is more then 30 grains then and scale is set to 0 .

case (tickDelta > 1499 && this.scale.weight === 0 ) :

  let {PythonShell} = require('python-shell')

PythonShell.run('/home/pi/projects/trickler/peripheral/lib/steper.py', null, function(err) {
if (err) throw err
console.log('finished stepper')

[erichiggins]

@cyclepath37 I got the new cable -- are you using it with the adapter, or just connected directly to the scale?

[cyclepath37]

@erichiggins I use the null modem adapter, and I ended up getting a 90degree adapter also since i have my scale pushed up against the wall. StarTech.com Right Angle DB9 to DB9 Serial Cable Adapter Type 2 - M/F (GC99MFRA2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001S2PYV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rVhqEbJXQ41NM

I also wired in the push button from the dandy. This is allowing me to manually add one kernel if needed. I typically set the app to .02gr below my target. Had to adjust the values a bit since I am using a modified forster drop tube(long).

[erichiggins]

@cyclepath37 Great setup -- thanks for the photo!

[erichiggins]

I've had a chance to try the new cable and it worked great for me! I'll try doing a few rapid reboots today just to verify that it's more stable, but so far so good.

[Passaita]

Hello everyone, first of all thank you for moving this ahead. Really great addition to our hobby.
I am waiting for my scale to be delivered and decided to pre-build trickler in advance. A couple attempts to build the code on raspbian using installation script failed (mostly due to my bad internet some packages wouldn't download) so I installed the image.
After reading the thread looks like Bloetooth is getting more stable with certain cable. At the same time I am wondering:

• Can weight selection be implemented on the web interface?
• Since PRi has SD card some presets (weight) can be saved too.

I can contribute my 3D design skills to this project. Once my system is running I am planing to make a case for RPi and all the components. Anything else you were thinking about?

[Shooter0423]

@Passaita welcome to the group. You are correct about the cable, definitely buy the cable @cyclepath37 suggested, im not sure if @erichiggins update the list of materials.
The Bluetooth is very stable, the old cable was causing a connection error between the RPi and the scale, but the new cable seems to have resolved that problem.
I'm in the process of testing an "auto-throw" feature using a Lee Deluxe Power Measure activated by a stepper motor contolled by the RPi. If you haven't built the expansion board for the RPi, i suggest that you use the proto bonnet that eric suggest, it make a very clean setup. The stepper drive I use will fit on the unused area if you keep the vibro control footprint kinda small. There is a pic in a post i made earlier to give an idea of the layout needed for the driver.

[Passaita]

I don't have a powder measure to play with and to be honest I am currently 3D designing powder trickler just for this project as I didn't have one. I know, I know, I am sorry, no comments :)
Stepper motors are great and I used them in the 3D printer but the complexity with drivers scares me. Maybe because I have a lot of experience in RC planes and prefer servos I built controllers for my blinds at home using ESP8266 ESP-12 NodeMCU WeMos and servos without any additional drivers. This approach could be much simpler for others to follow and cheaper rather than stepper motors.

[Passaita]

My scale arrived today! Will try to connect everything tonight.

[Passaita]

My scale arrived today! Will try to connect everything tonight.

It works!!!
As described above pin was changed from 15 to 12 and pre-built image works.
Dispensing is way too slow but it is most likely because of my homemade trickler. Maybe pipe is too long, I made it so it can reach the center of the scale. Or vibro motor that I could source at a local shop isn't strong enough.
Anyway even with really slow dispensing on the last stage of loading code doesn't pause long enough to wait for kernels to saddle down and this is typically causing an overload 0.02 - 0.04 grains.
Another thing I have noticed (again this is mostly because of the pipe) on the fast stage of dispensing vibrations are causing kernels to almost plug the pipe. I manually added a couple grains and motor changed vibration frequency. This change made kernels move in the previously "plugged" pipe. So my suggestion would be to use various vibro modes for the fast stage.

[Shooter0423]

@Passaita good to hear that thing worked well. I had some of the same issues with the trickler. I built a trickler out of parts on hand but did use the vibro motor listed in the BOM. I rewrote the portion of code that @erichiggins had developed. Eric had set me up a discussion thread for PWM control, I didn't have much success in that area but that thread might be a place to continue this discussion and keep this thread focused on installation. By the why, what powder are you using, i'm using Tac and Varget, a ball powder and a stick powder. You said the pipe may be to long, the pipe I built is 6" long made of the aluminum tube spec'd in the build list. My thought was the hole I drilled may be to big and causing the pipe to clog. And lastly, when you say it to slow, what amount of time are you referring, with Tac I get a charge at the target weight in 20 secs 95% of the time. I load in blocks of 100 as a match is 69 rnds or 88 rnds (20 rnds for record x3 or 4 and sighters as allowed) so if the throw is +/-0.02gr it gets used but put in the front row and get used for foulers or something not in the match.

[Datakalu]

I put together a knock off of a Dandy Trickler that when tuned to the powder with the dampening weight it will hit the target weight spot on every time with either ball or stick propellants.
I’ll throw a bulk charge to within a 1/2 grain or so and I charge cases just about as quickly as I move the pan around.
The system rocks, thank you all!!!!!!!

[Passaita]

@Passaita

• PWM control, I didn't have much success in that area but that thread might be a place to continue this discussion and keep this thread focused on installation. Absolutely agree and will continue there. This thread seemed to be the most live one? Looking forward to have a look at it. I have no experience with JS but some basic knowledge in Python.
• What powder are you using, i'm using Tac and Varget, a ball powder and a stick powder. I am using Alliant Reloder 17. Never worked with other powders this one looks lite cuts of little rods.
• You said the pipe may be to long, the pipe I built is 6" long made of the aluminum tube spec'd in the build list. Mine is stainless steel 3/8 OD I had in the garage.
• My thought was the hole I drilled may be to big and causing the pipe to clog. I experimented a little: mirror polished inside and drilled a little bigger hole, now the flow is a visually better
• When you say it to slow, what amount of time are you referring? It takes over two minutes for 40.3 grains. I was faster using hands :) But it's project in process

There is following response from Datakalu and I want to say that I have made similar modifications. I have moved the motor instead of the weight and it gives different results on flow, speed and accuracy.

[Datakalu]

Brilliant!

[Shooter0423]

@Datakalu very nice looking trickler
@Passaita same with yours
Reloder 17 probably meters a lot like varget,
I forgot to add in my earlier post that I throw the bulk of the charge to within 0.5gr with a powder measurer then let the trickler finish. If I where to try to trickler the entire charge (approx. 24 gr) it would take a long time. I'm thinking to get an efficient speed you need to throw the bulk of the charge and then trickle to the target.

[erichiggins]

Hey everyone! I've updated the instructions on the main README to reflect the work that was done here to use ready-to-flash images. I've also added links to two new images: production and dev.

Notable changes:

• The ecosystem.config.js file now assumes you've soldered motor control to PIN 12. If you're still using PIN 15, you can update the file on your CODE partition after flashing the latest image.
• The production image removes SSH access to reduce the the security risks I mentioned above.
• The log files viewed from http://opentrickler.local now show the entire log file, not just starting with the last 10 lines.
• Windows-friendly partitions (BOOT and CODE) have been changed to uppercase to resolve issues with older versions of Windows which may not be able to view them.
• Some issues with Bluetooth advertising have been fixed. If you've had trouble with the app not being able to find your Open Trickler, this new image may help.

With that said, I think this ticket can finally be closed out. Please feel free to open a new ticket if you experience issues with the latest images!

[erichiggins]

Hey everyone! I created a Discord to make it easier for folks who are building an Open Trickler to chat with and support each other.

https://discord.gg/Bx3ynT

This invite link expires in 1 day to keep out spammers, but feel free to email me directly and I'd be happy to invite you!