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Kevin Balthaser edited this page Apr 22, 2023
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Recommended parts are from Mouser US unless noted.
Reference | Value | Recommended Part | LCSC Option | Notes |
---|---|---|---|---|
F1 | 16v 10A Polyfuse | AGRF1000 | FHT1000-16F | 10A guaranteed holding capacity. |
C1 C2 C3 | 10uf 25v MLCC | C322C106K3R5TA | C2761733 | |
C4 | 100uf 60v Electrolytic | EEU-FR1H101B | EEU-FR1J101B | Low ESR needed |
D1 | 1N4148 | 1N4148 | 1N4148 | C14538 |
J1 J2 J3 J4a/b | Phoenix LPT 2 pin | 1190297 | KF2EDGV-5.0-2P | SPT also acceptable if you want screw terminals |
J4 | JST PH 9 pin | Generics Acceptable | ||
J6 | JST PH 5 pin | B5B-PH-K-S(LF)(SN) | C157993 | Generics acceptable |
K1 | 10A SPST Relay, 3v coil | G5LE-14 DC3 ( G5LE-1-DC3) | C24585 | Any of the G5LE DC3 variants from Omron will work, these seem in short supply, so substitute what you can get with a 3V coil. |
Q1 | PN2222A | PN2222A | C896866 | Generic NPN, pick whatever is cheap |
Q2 | TIP120 | TIP120 | C165098 | TIP122 may be substituted if 120 is out of stock |
R1 R3 | 330ohm Metal Film | MF1/4LCT52R331J | C173152 | |
R2 | 10ohm metal film | C138214 | ||
U1 | Raspberry Pi Pico | Can use regular Pico, or header version, board supports either. | ||
U2 | 3.3v Regulator Module | N7803-1PV | C2916516 | LM78xx compatible switching regulator |
U4 | TMC5160 SilentStepStick | There are lots available, I found the OEM to be cheapest. All seem to share pinout. |
- There are many options available for the TMC5160 SilentStepStick. They are commonly used in 3d printers and CNC router projects. The following have been identified as acceptable alternatives.
- FYSETC TMC5160 QHV https://wiki.fysetc.com/QHV5160/
- This module can be found on Amazon and AliExpress. It uses much larger MOSFETS than the Trinamic version, but does come supplied with a heat sink.
- This module has 4 extra pins along the edge which must be removed to fit the PCB footprint. These aren't used by the KiwiBoard. You can either flush cut them, or de-solder them, they will pull out easily with needle-nose pliers on one side, and soldering iron on the other, you can yank them right out.
- This part comes preconfigured for SPI Mode. No trace cutting is required to enable SPI mode, unlike the Trinamic version.
The PCB layout is designed around using 5 2-place wire-to-board terminal blocks. The specified part is Phoenix LPT series connectors, with a 5MM , 2 row pin pitch. These are a tool-less Wago style, lever actuated connector. As they are tool-less, name-brand, and high-current rated, they are on the more expensive side of connectors. The builder may swap in other connectors if they wish.
Example Substitutes
- Phoenix SPT series in 5mm pitch. These are a screw closure version of the LPT, and may be less expensive at your vendor of choice.
- You may use board-to-wire plug connectors instead of a terminal block. Example: From LCSC: KF2EDGV-5.0-2P and matching plug: KF2EDGK-5.0-2P These will only fill one row of the footprint. It is recommended that you mount the connector such that the part is mounted closest to the rest of the circuit it is connected to (So inboard in pretty much every case). It is also worth it to fill the empty holes with solder to increase current capacity across the pad.
2.8" LCD ILI9341 based 240x320 LCD.
- Easily found on Amazon and AliExpress
- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BNQBKFCT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
- Touch screen version can be used, it is more easily available, and the touch screen layer can easily be peeled off to make the screen look better.
Encoder with button
- Rotary encoder with click button module, with built in pull-ups.
- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B68H6R8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Cabling:
- Encoder will require a 5 pin JST PH -> 5pin .1" DuPont connector cable.
- LCD will require a 9 pin JST PH --> 9 pin .1" DuPont connector cable (10 pin can be used on the LCD side, they are easier to find)
- These cables are pretty easy to make with kits from Amazon or similar. Easiest route is to get a JST PH pre-terminated connector set, and a DuPont connector crimper and connector housings. Cut one end off the PH wire, and terminate on a DuPont connector instead (The DuPont connector is easier to DIY crimp, and easier to source cheap crimp tool for)