Blower and Servo Wiring
The HeaterMeter output is a standard RJ45 connector. This interface was chosen due to the ubiquity of cables which fit into this jack. Wiring a blower and optional servo connection can be done with virtually any ethernet or phone cable.
- Servo power (red) to Pin 3 (white/green)
- Servo ground (brown) and blower ground (black) together to Pin 4 (blue)
- Blower power (red) to Pin 5 (white/blue)
- Servo signal (yellow) to Pin 6 (green)
Assumes a standard Ethernet straight through cable with 568B pinout (white/orange and orange on pins 1 and 2)
The center two wires are +12V Blower and Ground, so this connection can be made with a 2 conductor phone cord, 4 conductor phone cord, or ethernet cable. On a standard ethernet cable the center wires are always blue and blue/white. To attach the blower, just cut one end off the cable and connect what were the center two wires to the blower's red (+12V) and black (Ground) wires. If you have a third blue wire on your fan (RPM sense) just cut it off as HeaterMeter does not provide RPM monitoring. A little heatshrink tubing makes a really nice connection.
The next outer pair of wires are for the servo, and requires at least 4 wires in your cable (4 conductor phone cord or ethernet cable). One is +5V (Red on the servo side) the other is the servo signal (White, Yellow, or Orange on the servo side). Ground (Black or Brown on the servo side) should be split off from the blower ground. The color of these wires on an ethernet cable vary depending on which type of cable you have. On a regular 568B straight-through ethernet cable they'll be green/white (+5V, pin 3) and green (servo signal, pin 6). 568A cables can be used as well, but pins 3 and 6 are orange/white and orange, respectively. On a crossover cable it varies depending on which end you're looking at. All that is needed is to match the color going into the RJ45 on the HeaterMeter.
When using a servo, the shorter the cable used to connect from the HeaterMeter, the better. Less than 3ft/1M is ideal. If the servo doesn't move or moves all over the place or just jams itself to one side, this usually indicates an issue with the 5V power and can be solved by adding a capacitor as close to the servo as possible. A 10uF-100uF/10V capacitor usually works well and can even be added right into an ethernet keystone in a damper, although be careful the capacitors leads do not spread the blades of the ethernet punchdown so far that the wires make intermittent connection.
- When setting up the damper, leave the dial off and power it up.
- Using the LCD menus on the device, use the right button to go to
Manual Mode, change it toYesthen press the left button to exit. Alternatively, use the webui and set the setpoint to "0%". - Now the damper should be at the 0% position, so install the dial as close as you can get it to closed. Due to the splines on the servo gear, there's going to be a little error one way or the other, but we'll adjust that in a moment.
- Set the output to 100% (up button or use the webui to set "100%"). Adjust the servo endpoint in the webui LinkMeter -> Configuration -> Servo Pulse Duration, Right value so the damper is fully open at 100%. Don't forget the hotkey Alt+S or Cmd+S to quickly save the value without having to scroll down to the "Save & Apply" button.
- Drop back down to 0% manual output and tweak that servo pulse duration, left value to get the closed position just right.
- Entering any regular setpoint temperature switches HeaterMeter back to automatic mode, or use the device LCD menu to switch
Manual ModetoNo.